The light dawn rain gave way to a calm overcast after our 55-minute ride. We were the only boat in sight. Just four divers and one huge wreck – the USS Oriskany. Sweet!
The aircraft carrier (pronounced o-RIS-kuh-ny), launched as WWII ended, served in Korea and Vietnam. Hollywood cast her with Van Johnson (Men of the Fighting Lady, 1954), William Holden (The Bridges at Toko-Ri, 1954), and Robin Williams (What Dreams May Come, 1998). But on May 17, 2006, she became a living memorial, resting upright in the sand 20 miles south of Pensacola. At 911 feet long, 157 feet wide, and over 150 feet tall, she’s the largest ship ever sunk as an artificial reef. (For a brief history, go to the Wikipedia Web Site.)
I’d booked the trip through MBT Divers. Most Pensacola dive shops run scheduled charters through independent captains and most boats are small (six or less divers). I was a last minute “walk on” with Capt Ron of the Pensacola Dive Company.
Two tech divers in our foursome planned a single dive to penetrate the hull and hangers below 130 ft. Ben (my buddy) and I followed a more typical recreational plan: two dives to the carrier’s island (control tower). A 30% Nitrox mix would allow a brief visit to the flight deck (130 ft) without compromising safety. Currents on the wreck are usually light and visibility runs at least 60 ft.
For the first dive Ron met us on the flight deck. We entered the island’s base through a starboard hatch. Working our way in slow circles upward, we explored cabins, crew stations, a head (with its facilities intact), stairways, flight control tower, and the bridge, emerging near the radar mast base at 60 ft. In a year the wreck hasn’t accumulated much growth, but sea urchins have flocked to a new home. Large octopi snuggle in beam ends. Arrow crabs are holding conventions in the companionways. We returned to the line for a slow ascent.
After an hour surface interval, we descended a second time. Now we concentrated on the external populations of the wreck. Yellowtail Snapper and Jacks schooled along the island. Spotfin Butterflyfish, Tangs and juvenile Queen Angelfish
grazed the open deck. Seaweed Blennies played sentry in the deck stanchions. A 4 foot long barracuda
circled just beyond arm’s reach. A juvenile Blue Tang even declared war on my gloved
hand. (That Fish ID course was worth it, Patti!)
Old Glory and the POW/MIA flag furled and unfurled slowly in the current at the yardarm. Bottom time exhausted, Ben and I headed slowly up.
By 2:30 we were back at the shop – and straight into a Barcelona film documentary about the Oriskany’s impact on tourism. (Somewhere in Spain my face is famous.) Wasn’t unusual. Earlier this spring MBT Divers had hosted charters for divers from as far away as Korea and Brazil!
Souvenirs in hand, I returned to great accommodations (with an MBT discount) at Suburban Lodge Extended Stay, a mere
half-mile from the dive shop.
Since my wife and daughter don’t dive, we continued exploring Pensacola’s other attractions. Down the road at NAS Pensacola are the lighthouse and forts. The National Museum of Naval Aviation (free admission!) needs its own day! (I know because my wife reluctantly accompanied me early one afternoon and had to be dragged out as they shut the doors!) Then there are great beaches, super restaurants, the historical districts…
You know, I think I need to go back. Real soon.
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